《红楼梦》美食

《红楼梦》是中国小说历史上的一座巅峰,生动的还原了清代贵族家庭生活的点点滴滴。其中的饮食,让人觉得颇有趣味。不管是海棠诗社的螃蟹宴、还是刘姥姥二进大观园,抑或贾府中秋家宴,小说中这些生动的场景,处处都透着考究的饮食习俗。让我们穿越时空和文化的距离,搭配红楼梦中记载的美食与葡萄酒名酿,做一回红楼梦中人。
注:本文所摘录中文原文为庚辰本。

鸽子蛋 Boiled Pigeon’s Eggs
劉姥姥拿起箸來,只覺不聽使,又說道:“這裡的雞兒也俊,下的這蛋也小巧,怪俊的。我且肏攮一個。”……那劉姥姥正誇雞蛋小巧,要肏攮一個,鳳姐兒笑道:“一兩銀子一個呢,你快嘗嘗罷,那冷了就不好吃了。”劉姥姥便伸箸子要夾,那裡夾的起來,滿碗裡鬧了一陣好的,好容易撮起一個來,才伸著脖子要吃,偏又滑下來滾在地下,忙放下箸子要親自去撿,早有地下的人撿了出去了。劉姥姥歎道:“一兩銀子,也沒聽見響聲兒就沒了。”(第四十回)
刘姥姥二进大观园的时候,凤姐和鸳鸯为了让贾母开心,将刘姥姥好生促狭作弄一番。这饭桌上的第一关,就是小小的鸽子蛋。根据中医理论,鸽子蛋可以补肾益气,是养生佳品。再加上鸽子产蛋率较低,所以过去一直是贵胄席宴的上品。书中虽然没有记载具体的烹饪方法,但是我们可以从同样记载江浙菜系的《随园食单》中一窥究竟。贾府中的鸽子蛋,很可能是微煮后去皮,然后以鸡汤佐料煨之,鲜嫩绝伦。鲜嫩的蛋清需要用细腻的白葡萄来呼应。完美搭配:勃艮第墨索村白葡萄酒。

茄鲞Preserved Eggplant
賈母笑道:“你把茄鯗搛些喂他。”鳳姐兒聽說,依言搛些茄鯗送入劉姥姥口中,因笑道:“你們天天吃茄子,也嘗嘗我們的茄子弄的可口不可口。”劉姥姥笑道:“別哄我了,茄子跑出這個味兒來了,我們也不用種糧食,只種茄子了。”眾人笑道:“真是茄子,我們再不哄你。”劉姥姥詫異道:“真是茄子?我白吃了半日。姑奶奶再喂我些,這一口細嚼嚼。”鳳姐果又搛了些放入口內。劉姥姥細嚼了半日,笑道:“雖有一點茄子香,只是還不像是茄子。告訴我是個什麼法子弄的,我也弄著吃去。”鳳姐兒笑道:“這也不難。你把才下來的茄子把皮籤了,只要淨肉,切成碎釘子,用雞油炸了,再用雞脯子肉並香菌、新筍、蘑菇、五香腐幹、各色乾果子,都切成釘子,拿雞湯煨幹,將香油一收,外加糟油一拌,盛在瓷罐子裡封嚴,要吃時拿出來,用炒的雞瓜一拌就是。”劉姥姥聽了,搖頭吐舌說道:“我的佛祖!倒得十來隻雞來配他,怪道這個味兒!” (第四十一回)
茄鲞是《红楼梦》中最著名的一道贾府家菜,极大地还原了荣国府当年饮食风貌。虽然使用茄子制作,却别有一番风味。根据脂批本,茄子要先用鸡汤和杂菌入味后再煨干,吃的时侯与鸡丁一拌即可。这样一道充满鸡肉和杂菌鲜香的凉菜,需要使用味道强大的白葡萄酒来搭配。白葡萄酒丰富的水果香气和强大的矿物质味道,可以衬托鸡汤和杂菌的鲜香,丰腴的酒体则能够与茄肉的口感相呼应。推荐搭配:勃艮第伯恩丘白葡萄酒、埃米塔吉白葡萄酒、加州霞多丽白葡萄酒。

糟鹅掌鸭信Braised Goose Feet and Duck Tongues in Rice Wine Sauce
这里薛姨妈已摆了几样细茶果来留他们吃茶。宝玉因夸前日在那府里珍大嫂子的好鹅掌鸭信。薛姨妈听了,忙也把自己糟的取了些来与他尝。宝玉笑道:“这个须得就酒才好。”薛姨妈便令人去灌了最上等的酒来。(第八回)
糟制菜肴是江南固有的传统和特色,其中画龙点睛的原料糟油,通常使用糯米和多种药材酿制,色浓味香,提鲜去腥。鹅掌、鸭信、鸡胗等等都是常见的糟制食材,需要先煮熟后剔骨,再用鸡汤复煮或蒸入味,然后拌入糟油若干时辰即可上桌。肉质极具滋味,往往让人欲罢不能。香气丰盛,适合搭配果香强烈而丹宁柔和的黑比诺。也可以尝试采用具有一定酒体的白葡萄酒,强化鹅掌鸭信的口感。完美搭配:勃艮第红葡萄酒,梅多克和格拉夫产区白葡萄酒。

火腿炖肘子Boiled Ham and Gammon
贾琏向桌上拣两盘肴馔与他放在杌上自吃。凤姐又道:“妈妈很嚼不动那个,倒没的硌了他的牙。”因向平儿道:“早起我说那一碗火腿炖肘子很烂,正好给妈妈吃,你怎么不拿了去赶着叫他们热来?”又道:“妈妈,你尝一尝你儿子带来的惠泉酒。” (第十六回)
虽然红楼门中贾府故事发生在江南,但是肘子这一北方词语却点显出小说原型曹家的北方渊源。江浙一带多称蹄膀,指的是前后蹄靠上的一块精肉。这里的火腿,是江南著名的金华火腿,盐腌后发酵,色香味均为上品。这道菜也被称作金银蹄,是因为炖后的火腿呈黄色,肘子则呈白色。果香丰沛的红葡萄酒,可以为这道菜肴增色不少。不管是火腿还是肘子,均肥而不腻,柔顺的丹宁是其良好伴侣。完美搭配:圣埃米利永列级庄、波美侯、教皇新堡。

内造瓜仁油松穰月饼 Assorted Nuts Mooncake
說著,便將自己吃的一個內造瓜仁油松穰月餅,又命斟一大杯熱酒,送給譜笛之人,慢慢的吃了再細細的吹一套來。(第七十六回)
秋意渐起,全国各地的吃货们恐怕已经开始准备中秋节的月饼了。贾府作为朝廷重臣,又是皇亲(荣国府大小姐元春封为贵妃),收到宫中赏赐的御制月饼也就不足为奇了。虽然书中只是一笔掠过月饼的名称,但是我们仍然可以推断出这很有可能是让人又爱又恨的五仁月饼。市场上充斥着的粗制滥造的五仁月饼很大程度上损坏了人们对它的印象,但是选用上好果仁和猪油精心制作之者,仍然是月饼中的佼佼者。对于五仁月饼,我们当然要请出酸甜可口的迟摘和贵腐酒来搭配了。完美搭配:苏玳和巴萨克地区贵府酒,摩泽尔地区的TBA和BA雷司令。

酸笋鸡皮汤Sour soup of pickled bamboo-shoots and chicken-skin
幸而薛姨媽千哄萬哄的,只容他吃了幾杯,就忙收過了。作酸筍雞皮湯,寶玉痛喝了兩碗,吃了半碗飯合些碧粳粥。(第八回)
酸笋如今在南方已经较为常见,但是在清朝年间却只是大户人家才享受得起的稀罕物,只有广西、越南等地才比较普遍。酸笋腌制要采用初生的笋芽,去壳后切成丝或片加盐腌制。酸味清爽而又极其鲜美,可以单独吃,也可以与鱼肉蔬菜煲汤。薛姨妈为宝玉烹制的酸笋鸡皮汤,清爽而不油腻,混合了鸡和笋的双重鲜味,更可以解酒。足可见薛姨妈对其溺爱。可以搭配普林尼梦哈榭或沙桑尼梦哈榭村出产的白酒,同样清爽宜人。完美搭配:普林尼梦哈榭和沙桑尼梦哈榭出产霞多丽。

炸鹌鹑 Fried Quails
(熙凤)想畢,因笑道:“方才臨來,舅母那邊送了兩籠子鵪鶉,我吩咐他們炸了,原要趕太太晚飯上送過來的。我才進大門時,見小子們抬車,說太太的車拔了縫,拿去收拾去了。不如這會子坐了我的車一齊過去倒好。”(第四十六回)
《礼记》中有“鹑,为上大夫之礼”的记载,说明千年前鹌鹑即为贵胄餐桌上的美食。鹌鹑向来被视为养生珍品,可以补五脏、益中续气。炸鹌鹑的做法很多,常见的有生炸和熟炸,书中并没有交代贾府是如何烹饪的,也给人们留下了一个有意思的悬念。目前云南一带常用生炸,即清炸,去毛和内脏后简单腌制,不挂糊拍粉,直接入热油炸制,成品外焦里嫩。同样充满野味的夜丘圣乔治村和味道变化多端的沃尼罗曼尼村的顶级黑比诺,是相当不错的选择。完美搭配:夜丘圣乔治村、沃尼罗曼尼村黑比诺。

螃蟹宴 Crabs
寶釵道:“這個我已經有個主意。我們當鋪裡有個夥計,他家田上出的很好的肥螃蟹,前兒送了幾斤來。現在這裡的人,從老太太起連上園裡的人,有多一半都是愛吃螃蟹的。前日姨娘還說要請老太太在園裡賞桂花吃螃蟹,因為有事還沒有請呢。你如今且把詩社別提起,只管普通一請。等他們散了,咱們有多少詩作不得的。我和我哥哥說,要幾簍極肥極大的螃蟹來,再往鋪子裡取上幾壇好酒,再備上四五桌果碟,豈不又省事又大家熱鬧了。”(第三十七回)
海棠诗社摆螃蟹宴赏菊题诗,可以算是贾宝玉在大观园中最快乐的时光。恰逢又到秋日,正是赏花、吃螃蟹的大好时机,每到此时,江浙一带好吃之徒怕是要倾巢出动,来到盛产螃蟹的湖边以饱口福。其他地方的吃客,则只能眼巴巴的等待快递,此时的心情,恐怕也是“一骑红尘妃子笑”吧!吃蟹的讲究,书中也提到了相当多的细节,比如以姜醋调味、祛寒,或因时拣团脐一饱口福等等。黄酒自然是螃蟹的绝配,顶级的梦哈榭、骑士梦哈榭等也是相当不错的选择。痛吃大闸蟹,不要忘记饮几口葡萄酒祛寒啊!完美搭配:梦哈榭、骑士梦哈榭、巴塔梦哈榭等特级田出产的霞多丽。

野鸡瓜齑 Pickled Pheasant with Salted Cucumber Cubes
一時眾姊妹來齊,寶玉只嚷餓了,連連催飯。……寶玉卻等不得,只拿茶泡了一碗飯,就著野雞瓜齏忙忙的咽完了。(第四十九回)
野鸡瓜齑还原成现代菜比较类似于宫保鸡丁,但是考虑到贾府北方渊源,这里的瓜应该是类似于咸菜的酱瓜,整道菜口味咸鲜而非辣菜。这其实是一道家庭常备的下饭小菜,清代菜谱《调鼎集》也有收录。根据记载,鸡肉要先去皮骨切丁,然后配酱瓜、冬笋、瓜仁、生姜,加菜油、甜酱炒,也可加入彩椒同炒。这道菜可以搭配酒体圆润的白葡萄酒,如罗纳河谷北部出产的埃米塔吉白葡萄酒,或者经过橡木桶陈年的霞多丽葡萄酒。完美搭配:埃米塔吉白葡萄酒、伯恩丘霞多丽葡萄酒。

油盐炒枸杞芽 Fried Wolfberry Buds
連前兒三姑娘和寶姑娘偶然商議了要吃個油鹽炒枸杞芽兒來,現打發個姐兒拿著五百錢來給我,我倒笑起來了,說:‘二位姑娘就是大肚子彌勒佛,也吃不了五百錢的去。這三二十個錢的事,還預備的起。’(第六十一回)
这是一道相当不起眼的的家常小菜,但是却引出了大观园里的一段公案。暂且不论小说里的情节,天天锦衣玉食的大小姐们,突然间想要换换口味,吃一道清爽的油盐炒枸杞芽,倒也算风雅。最好要趁春天,枸杞刚刚长出嫩芽的时候采摘。与嫩蒜瓣过油略炒,出锅前加盐即可。汪曾祺还曾记载,也可以开水一焯,加香油、酱油、醋凉拌,“极清香”。这样一道小菜,必要搭配同样爽口的白葡萄酒。完美搭配:夏布利白葡萄酒,摩泽尔河流域干白雷司令。

胭脂鹅脯 Steamed Goose
說著,只見柳家的果遣了人送了一個盒子來。小燕接著揭開,裡面是一碗蝦丸雞皮湯,又是一碗酒釀清蒸鴨子,一碟醃的胭脂鵝脯,還有一碟四個奶油松瓤卷酥,並一大碗熱騰騰碧熒熒蒸的綠畦香稻粳米飯。小燕放在案上,走去拿了小菜並碗箸過來,撥了一碗飯。芳官便說:“油膩膩的,誰吃這些東西。”只將湯泡飯吃了一碗,揀了兩塊醃鵝就不吃了。(第六十二回)
鹅是贾府的一道常见菜,不管是贾珍、贾琏,还是薛姨妈,都喜用鹅来烹饪。这里的这道胭脂鹅脯,是江南本地的一道常见菜,袁枚曾记录过名为“云林鹅”的烹饪方法,大概就是此菜的原型。据其记载推断,胭脂鹅脯大概是单取鹅胸脯肉,腌制后配上小葱、姜末和花椒,入蒸笼制成的。虽然做出来的鹅脯色泽鲜红,但是这道菜确实相当的清口。可以考虑搭配口感中重的白葡萄酒。完美搭配:哥顿-查理曼出产的白葡萄酒、格拉夫产区的白葡萄酒。

酒酿清蒸鸭子Steamed Duck in Jiuniang
說著,只見柳家的果遣了人送了一個盒子來。小燕接著揭開,裡面是一碗蝦丸雞皮湯,又是一碗酒釀清蒸鴨子,一碟醃的胭脂鵝脯,還有一碟四個奶油松瓤卷酥,並一大碗熱騰騰碧熒熒蒸的綠畦香稻粳米飯。小燕放在案上,走去拿了小菜並碗箸過來,撥了一碗飯。芳官便說:“油膩膩的,誰吃這些東西。”只將湯泡飯吃了一碗,揀了兩塊醃鵝就不吃了。(第六十二回)
鸭子是水居之禽,烹饪难免会带有腥臊之气,烹饪时须加一些酒来解腥去臊。而这道酒酿清蒸鸭子,别出心裁的选用了酒酿,味甜而淡,不但能够调和鸭肉的气味,更增添了额外的清香口感。与其他禽类不同,烹饪鸭子则时候往往选择的是老鸭,方可入味。鸭肉用盐和酒酿腌入味,加小葱和生姜即可上蒸笼。口感清爽的白葡萄酒可以用来搭配这道细腻清甜的鸭肉。完美搭配:夏布利葡萄酒,卢瓦尔河谷桑塞产区白葡萄酒。

面筋炒芦蒿Fried Artemisia Shoots with Sliced Wheat Gluten
前兒小燕來,說晴雯姐姐要吃蘆蒿,你怎麼忙的還問肉炒雞炒?小燕說:‘葷的因不好才另叫你炒個麵筋的,少擱油才好。’你忙的倒說自己發昏,趕著洗手炒了,狗顛兒似的親捧了去。今兒反倒拿我作筏子,說我給眾人聽。(第六十一回)
炒芦蒿是大江南北常见的一道家常菜,有一股特别的香气。但是南北的吃法也略有不同,南方多食用蒿芽,北方则是杆叶通吃。因为柳家的问是肉炒还是鸡炒,所以我们可以猜测这道菜很可能是北方做法,而最终用来同炒的,则是北方常见的水面筋。面筋要切丝或片,最好提前单炒至八成熟。这道菜口味清淡,略放一点油,芦蒿略炒一下,加入预先炒好的面筋即可出锅。这道菜可以搭配带有轻盈果香,略微经过橡木桶陈酿的黑比诺。完美搭配:梧玖村或者济吾-香贝田村子出产的葡萄酒。

野鸡崽子汤 Spring Pheasant Soup
王夫人又請問:“這會子可又覺大安些”?賈母道:“今日可大好了。方才你們送來野雞崽子湯,我嘗了一嘗,倒有味兒,又吃了兩塊肉,心裡很受用。”王夫人笑道:“這是鳳丫頭孝敬老太太的。算他的孝心虔,不枉了素日老太太疼他。”賈母點頭笑道:“難為他想著。若是還有生的,再炸上兩塊,鹹浸浸的,吃粥有味兒。那湯雖好,就只不對稀飯。”鳳姐聽了,連忙答應,命人去廚房傳話。(第四十三回)
贾府的太太小姐们在饮食方面颇会享受,野鸡这样的美味自然是贾府餐桌上的常客。贾母养病时,喝的就是野鸡汤,而且选用的是肉质鲜嫩的童子鸡。鸡汤美味,不但被视作大补,更是厨房常备调味提鲜的法宝。南方人可以算是将煲汤的文化发展到了极致,这道野鸡崽子汤的精华不在肉中,而是全在这淡淡的汤中,鲜而不腻,爽口清香。果香清淡而有具有矿物质感觉的白葡萄酒,是搭配这道汤不错的选择。完美搭配:普林尼梦哈榭和沙桑尼梦哈榭出产霞多丽。

烤全羊 Toasted Whole Lamb
果然賈珍煮了一口豬,燒了一腔羊,餘者桌菜及果品之類,不可勝記,就在會芳園叢綠堂中,屏開孔雀,褥設芙蓉,帶領妻子姬妾。先飯後酒,開懷賞月作樂。(第七十五回)
烤全羊可能是贾府最接地气的一道菜,但是钟鸣鼎食之家的贾府,依旧将这道菜演绎的相当高大上。不像夏日人气极旺的街边烧烤,人丁兴旺的贾府家宴上烤的是整只全羊,颇有游牧民族饮食风俗。此处恰也点出贾家迁自北方,并暗示了其满族包衣的身份。以果木为柴,明火烤制的羊肉,肉味香浓,既可单吃,也可以酌加盐、孜然等调味。这样大口吃肉,必然要大口喝酒才能过瘾。果味香浓,丹宁厚重柔顺的红葡萄酒,可以算是搭配烤全羊的不二选择。完美搭配:澳大利亚希拉单品种或者混酿葡萄酒,梅多克列级庄,教皇新堡。

原载:佳士得Christie’s香港2014年9月名酒拍卖图录
题图:史太君两宴大观园,金鸳鸯三宣牙牌令。戴邦敦

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