袁枚与《随园食单》

随园食单葡萄酒收藏家往往也是生活家,不仅懂得如何享受杯中美酒,亦知晓盘中的美味。在东西文化融合交融的今天,如果将西方的美酒与东方的美食搭配在一起,就变成一个格外有意义的命题。
古代的文人雅士,往往也是美食鉴赏家。比如清代的诗人袁枚(1716年-1797年),便著有《随园食单》,记载烹饪饮食的心得和私家食谱,可以算是清代江南地区学者家常菜的典范。我们不妨寻访一下当年袁枚家宴的胜景,尝试用今日的美酒来搭配中国传统烹饪美食。

波尔多葡萄酒
波尔多地区是全球顶尖的红葡萄酒产区,左岸的梅多克地区是1855年列级庄的所在地,出产极具陈年潜力的葡萄酒。梅多克以南的格拉夫地区,使用同样的赤霞珠、品丽珠和美乐葡萄产出同样优质的红葡萄酒,同时还使用长相思和赛美蓉葡萄出产顶级的白葡萄酒。位于右岸的波美侯和圣埃米利永同样是顶尖的红葡萄酒产区,产量小、品质高而受到酒评家偏爱。波尔多南部的苏玳则盛产甜度极高的贵腐葡萄酒和少量的干白,是餐后甜点的最佳搭配。

梅多克波亚克村Leoville Las Cases配脱沙肉/Tuosha Pork
去皮切碎,每一斤用鸡子三个,青黄俱用,调和拌肉;再斩碎,入秋油半酒杯,葱末拌匀,用网油一张裹之;外再用菜油四两,煎两面,起出去油;用好酒一茶杯,清酱半酒杯,闷透,提起切片;肉之面上,加韭菜、香蕈、笋丁。
脱沙肉的制作相当复杂,去皮肉切碎后与鸡蛋调和,再加入酱油和葱末拌匀,裹入网油。菜油煎两面后用白酒,酱油焖透后切片,上覆韭菜、香蕈、笋丁。这样一道复杂而又讲究的菜肴,也只有充满贵族气息,大气而又磅礴的雄狮来配了。假若1855年分级发生变化,圣于连产区的雄狮将是晋级一级庄的不二候选,高比例的赤霞珠赋予雄狮阳刚健美的男性气息。丰富、平衡、极富深度,穿透这道精巧复杂的脱沙肉,在口腔中让你享受味道的极致。

圣埃米利永Figeac配荔枝肉/Lychee Pork
用肉切大骨牌片,放白水煮二、三十滚,撩起;熬菜油半斤,将肉放入炮透,撩起,用冷水一激,肉皱,撩起;放入锅内,用酒半斤,清酱一小杯,水半斤,煮烂。
飞卓庄一直是波尔多传统酿酒风格的守护者,虽然位于美乐占统治地位右岸,但是高比例的赤霞珠和品丽珠却给飞卓带来左岸的骨架感和典雅。这道荔枝肉取荔枝之形,用肉切大骨牌片,沸水滚后用熟菜油炮制,再用冷水一激便有了荔枝的皲纹。用酒兑水加少许酱油,煮烂后肉香扑鼻但不油腻,与典雅的飞卓浑然天成。

圣埃米利永Valandraud配栗子炒鸡/Chestnut Chicken
鸡斩块,用菜油二两炮,加酒一饭碗,秋油一小杯,水一饭碗,煨七分熟;先将栗子煮熟,同笋下之,再煨三分起锅,下糖一撮。
如果要形容圣埃米利永的顶级膜拜酒瓦兰德鲁,甜美宛若青春期少女的笑容可以算是最诗意的刻画。高比例的美乐让瓦兰德鲁入口柔顺而又甜美,果香丰富而又浓郁。搭配这款略带甜味的栗子炒鸡,栗子和笋的味道煨入鸡肉中,在果香浓郁的瓦兰德鲁的陪伴下,各种香气均匀的在口中散开。

波美侯Vieux Chateau Certan配椒盐猪腰/Pigs Kidneys with Pepper and Salt
腰片炒枯则木,炒嫩则令人生疑;不如煨烂,蘸椒盐食之为佳。或加作料亦可。只宜手摘,不宜刀切。但须一日工夫,才得如泥耳。此物只宜独用,断不可搀入别菜中,最能夺味而惹腥。煨三刻则老,煨一日则嫩。
老赛丹是波美侯地区酒庄中历史悠久的贵族,酒庄的历史最早可以上溯到16世纪末。在含铁的粘土上,美乐是最主要的品种,所酿成的葡萄酒需要多年陈酿才能使单宁柔顺。这里提到的这款椒盐猪腰,袁枚特别提到要注意烹饪的火候,建议将猪腰直接煨烂,蘸椒盐食用。老赛丹完美的结构和平衡感,以及复杂的香气,恰恰与之匹配。猪腰滑嫩鲜香,老赛丹的果香和皮革味道,以及柔顺的单宁,相互搭配,完美在口中融合。

苏玳d’Yquem “Y”配八宝豆腐/Babao Bean Curd
用嫩片切粉碎,加香蕈屑、蘑菇屑、松子仁屑、瓜子仁屑、鸡屑、火腿屑,同入浓鸡汁中,炒滚起锅。用腐脑亦可。用瓢不用箸。孟亭太守云:“此圣祖师赐徐健庵尚书方也。尚书取方时,御膳房费一千两。”太守之祖楼村先生为尚书门生,故得之。
嫩豆腐切粉碎,与香蕈屑、蘑菇屑、松子仁屑、瓜子仁屑、鸡屑、火腿屑共入浓鸡汁中翻炒,谓之八宝。香气复杂而诱人,可以 与滴金的干白“Y”搭配。名列1855年一级特等的滴金庄素来以贵腐酒闻名,但在少数气候极佳的年份,滴金庄也生产一款稀有的干白葡萄酒“Y”。同样使用波尔多典型的白葡萄品种,长相思浓郁的香气和赛美容丰腴的结构,给这道八宝豆腐增添一份额外的清爽。

勃艮第葡萄酒
勃艮第地区是全球黑比诺和霞多丽葡萄酒爱好者的精神故乡,出产能够表现当地“风土”特征的顶级红白葡萄酒。最北部的夏布利产区出产清新、酸度怡人的白葡萄酒。而最核心的金丘包含伯恩丘和夜丘,夜丘出产顶级的红葡萄酒,伯恩丘则出产同样优质的白葡萄酒和红葡萄酒。

夜丘A. Rousseau Clos St Jacques配剥壳蒸蟹/Steamed Crab and Egg
将蟹剥壳,取肉、取黄,仍置壳中,放五六只在生鸡蛋上蒸之。上桌时完然一蟹,惟去爪脚。比炒蟹粉觉有新色。杨兰坡明府,以南瓜肉拌蟹,颇奇。
圣雅克园是勃艮第地区的超一级田,质量甚至要超过某些特级田,而卢梭出产的圣雅克园更是其中的精品。结构优雅精巧,果香丰富澎湃,单宁有力道但却相当柔顺。袁枚记载的剥壳蒸蟹,颇似粤菜中的清蒸花雕蟹。螃蟹剥壳后将黄和肉仍旧放在壳里面,置于鸡蛋上清蒸。柔顺的蟹肉和鸡蛋,入口即化,搭配同样柔顺典雅的圣雅克园,那感觉妙极了!

伯恩丘Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne配火腿煨肉/Stewed Ham and Prok
火腿切方块,冷水滚三次,去汤沥干;将肉切方块,冷水滚二次,去汤沥干;放清水煨,加酒四两,葱、椒、损、香蕈。
哥顿-查理曼只出产白葡萄酒,整个特级田的称号被三个村庄共有。得名于先后拥有这片土地的两位罗马帝王,这片特级田出产的白葡萄酒也相当的具有帝王之气。紧凑的结构、成熟的酸度和强壮的矿物感,是哥顿-查理曼应该具有的特征。复杂的结构,搭配这道以味道取胜的火腿煨肉,相互辉映。

夜丘DRC Richebourg配炒鸡腿蘑菇/Fried Mushroom and Chicken
芜湖大庵和尚,洗凈鸡腿,蘑菇去沙,加秋油、酒炒熟,盛盘宴客,甚佳。
李察堡是勃艮第最优质的特级田之一,不但具有典型的沃内-罗曼尼村葡萄酒的优雅,而且从结构和深度上都相当的精良。罗曼尼康帝酒园出产的李察堡花香浓郁,充满活力,给人一种奢华的感觉。这道简单但却不简约的炒鸡腿蘑菇,菌菇和鸡肉的香气柔弱但却有力道,映衬李察堡强大的香气而不失本味。

夜丘Henri Jayer Cros Parantoux配素烧鹅/Vegetarian Goose
煮烂山药,切寸为段,腐皮包,入油煎之,加秋油、酒、糖、瓜、姜,以色红为度。
克罗-帕宏图这片勃艮第的超一级田,与神之酿酒师亨瑞贾耶永远联系在了一起,正是这位不懈的努力和耕耘复兴了这片极具潜力的土地,并将之推上了如今的地位。贾耶的克罗-帕宏图果香丰富,平衡,具有一种相当令人震感的纯净的感觉。试一试袁枚记载的这道素烧鹅,豆腐皮包裹煮烂的山药,入油煎后加作料即可。酒和菜同样具有素雅的味道,克罗-帕宏图才能展现它的优雅,而其酸度更去除了素烧鹅略微带有的油腻。

伯恩丘Leflaive Puligny Montrachet配问政笋丝/Sliced Wenzheng Bamboo Shoots
问政笋,即杭州笋也。徽州人送者,多是淡笋干,只好泡烂切丝,用鸡肉汤煨用。龚司马取秋油煮笋,烘干上桌,徽人食之惊为异味。余笑其如梦之方醒也。
普林尼-蒙哈榭村子出产勃艮第地区最棒的白葡萄酒,使用100%霞多丽酿造。Leflaive是其中的佼佼者,从最顶尖的蒙哈榭特级田,到Pucelles和Folatieres等一级田,再到最普通的村庄级普林尼-蒙哈榭,无一不是霞多丽葡萄酒中的精品。果香丰富,充满矿物质气息,酸度和谐的普林尼-蒙哈榭,搭配问政笋,笋味鲜香,酒味丰盈,相当绝妙。

香槟起泡葡萄酒
香槟地区使用霞多丽、黑比诺和莫尼埃三个葡萄品种,出产全球最顶尖的起泡葡萄酒。其中的佼佼者当属年份香槟,而非年份香槟则是餐前开胃或者配菜的不二选择,另外还有产量小而有浪漫的桃红香槟。

记年香槟Bollinger R.D配笋煨火肉/Bamboo Shoots With Chinese Ham
冬笋切方块,火肉切方块,同煨。火腿撤去盐水两遍,再入冰糖煨烂。席武山别驾云:凡火肉煮好后,若留作次日吃者,须留原汤,待次日将火肉投入汤中滚热才好。若干放离汤,则风燥而肉枯;用白水则又味淡。
首席法兰西新近除渣是一款记年香槟,延长了带酒渣陈酿的时间,在装瓶前才去除酒渣,因而果香清新而陈年潜力更长。笋煨火肉清淡而不失味道,笋和火腿均异常鲜香,与清新而复杂的新近除渣香槟搭配在一起,相得益彰。

桃红记年香槟Louis Roederer Cristal Rose配醋搂鱼/Vinegar Gravy Fish
用活青鱼切大块,油灼之,加酱、醋、酒喷之,汤多为妙。俟熟即速起锅。此物杭州西湖上五柳居有名。而今则酱臭而鱼败矣。甚矣!宋嫂鱼羹,徒存虚名。《梦梁录》不足信也。鱼不可大,大则味不入;不可小,小则剌多。
水晶香槟系列是路易王妃旗下最有名产品,而水晶桃红更是其中的佼佼者。迷人的酸度和优雅的香气,略带一点焦糖的味道,试着搭配一下袁枚记载的这道醋搂鱼吧。醋搂鱼即是当今大名鼎鼎的西湖醋鱼的前身,但先炸后浇汁,因此外焦香酥脆,内鲜嫩可口,水晶桃红的新鲜果香和焦糖味道渗入到鱼肉中,充分挑逗食客的每一个味蕾,简直绝配。

白中白记年香槟Salon Le Mesnil配干蒸鸭/Braised Fat Duck
杭州商人何星举家干蒸鸭。将肥鸭一只,洗凈斩八块,加甜酒、秋油,淹满鸭面,放磁罐中封好,置干锅中蒸之;用文炭火,不用水,临上时,其精肉皆烂如泥。以线香二枝为度。
沙龙是香槟地区最优雅的白中白香槟之一,使用100%的霞多丽,全部来自Le Mesnil村,并且只有在气候最优秀的年份才酿造。这款近乎神话的香槟,细腻、优雅,可以与袁枚记载的干蒸鸭来搭配。肥鸭切块后加作料,在瓷罐中文火干蒸,大约两柱香的时间,“精肉皆烂如泥”。如此细腻的鸭肉,搭配同样细腻的白中白香槟,是对优雅最好的注解。

不记年香槟Selosse Initiale配虾油豆腐/Bean Curd In Aged Shrimp Sauce
取陈虾油,代清酱炒豆腐。须两面熯黄。油锅要热,用猪油、葱、椒。
瑟洛斯初始特酿是一款白中白香槟,使用100%的霞多丽,并且完全来自香槟地区的特级田。因此非常的细腻典雅,但是香气也相当丰富,并且带有焦糖等迷人的气息。虾油豆腐这道菜,用料简单,陈虾油、豆腐、猪油、葱、花椒。但是炸至两面熯黄,皮脆但不硬,内里爽滑,配劲道但却细腻的初始特酿,两两相宜,让人顿生简单的满足感,可算是一大乐事了。

罗纳河谷地区葡萄酒
罗纳河谷酿造葡萄酒的历史非常悠久,目前出产优质的红白葡萄酒。北部的罗帝丘出产的红葡萄酒风格极为强劲,埃米塔吉地区出产的红葡萄酒品质也相当出众。南部的教皇新堡出产的红葡萄酒,则最多可以使用13个不同的葡萄品种酿造。

罗帝丘Guigal La Turque配羊肚羹/Goat Tripe Soup
将羊肚洗凈,煮烂切丝,用本汤煨之。加胡椒、醋俱可。北人炒法,南人不能如其脆。钱〔王与〕沙方伯家锅烧羊肉极佳,将求其法。
吉佳乐是罗纳河谷地区最富盛名的酒庄之一,其代表作“La La La”系列中,香气最为复杂,花香浓郁的要数图克园La Turque。羊肚羹膻而不腥,与香气浓重的图克园搭配最是相宜,浓重的果香和地中海香料的味道,配上特有的花香,给羊肚羹增添一份复杂的味感,而更显不俗。

埃米塔吉Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle配段鳝/鳝大烤/Fried Eel
切鳝以寸为段,照煨鳗法煨之,或先用油炙,使坚,再以冬瓜、鲜笋、香蕈作配,微用酱水,重用姜汁。
艾米塔吉地区的嘉伯乐小教堂,在许多酒评家眼中都是最伟大的葡萄酒之一,尤其是其传奇般的1961年。这款酒可以尝试袁枚所记载的段鳝,即苏帮菜的响油鳝糊。口味偏甜,葱姜蒜香味十足,鳝肉鲜嫩,搭配果香丰沛而口感复杂的小教堂,恰到好处。

教皇新堡Pegau Cuvée de Capo 配小松蕈/Pine Mushroom
将清酱同松菌入锅滚熟,收起,加麻油入罐中,可食二日,入则味变。
沛果酒庄达加贝特酿是教皇新堡最顶级的特酿之一,遵循教皇新堡的传统酿酒工艺,使用最多达13种不同的葡萄品种混酿。老藤歌海娜葡萄提供了丰富的红色水果和香料的辛香,以及顺滑的单宁。达加贝特酿丰富的香气和味觉,反而可以与这倒简单的下酒小菜小松蕈相佐。菌菇的味道和麻油的香味,与老藤歌海娜的复杂香气搭配在一起,浑然天成。

新老世界膜拜酒
老世界的意大利、西班牙和新世界的美国加州、澳大利亚,也都出产非常优质的葡萄酒,并且受到葡萄酒爱好者和鉴赏家们的追捧。
意大利托斯卡纳地区出产的“超级托斯卡纳”葡萄酒,使用波尔多品种,品质出众,极具陈年潜力。
西班牙的杜罗河流域是当地最顶级的葡萄酒产区之一,气候非常适合酿造葡萄酒,使用丹魄葡萄酿制的红酒可以经得起长时间的陈年。
美国加州地区使用波尔多的赤霞珠、美乐、品丽珠等出产顶级的红葡萄酒,纳帕山谷产区是其中的佼佼者。不少酒庄出产的葡萄酒产量极低、但是品质出众,往往受到酒评家的高度赞扬。由于只通过邮购的方式及送给老客户,因此一瓶难求,只有在拍卖场上才能见到这些顶级名酿的身影。
澳大利亚出产优质的希拉葡萄酒,酒体强劲,富有果香和香料的味道,与罗纳河谷的希拉葡萄酒是新旧世界两种风格的代表。

西班牙杜罗河流域Pingus配冷拌海参丝/Sliced Sea Cucumber
海参无味之物,沙多气腥,最难讨好。夏日用芥末、鸡汁冷拌海参丝
西班牙的膜拜酒平古斯,可以算作是车库酒的典范:家庭作坊、极低的产量、极高的评价、极高的价格。平古斯色泽深沉,香气极其丰盛浓郁,开瓶后如同开启了一颗水果炸弹。这样浓烈的酒,可以用冷拌海参丝这种味道简单但是口感非凡的菜肴来搭配。海参无味,夏日用芥末和鸡汁冷拌相当爽口,而正与平古斯结合在一起。

意大利超级托斯卡纳Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia配赤炖肉鸡/Red-Cooked Chicken
赤炖肉鸡,洗切凈,每一斤用好酒十二两、盐二钱五分、冰糖四钱,研酌加桂皮,同入砂锅中,文炭火煨之。倘酒将干,鸡肉沿未烂,每斤酌加清开水一茶杯。
西施佳雅是意大利酒王,也是托斯卡纳地区三剑客之一。背离了传统的意大利酿酒方法,采用法国的酿酒葡萄品种赤霞珠和品丽珠酿造出这款反映意大利风土的波尔多混酿。这样浓重的风格,就要来搭配同样强烈的这道赤肉炖鸡,肉香、料酒香、香料香配上西施佳雅的果味和柔顺的单宁,是不可多得的享受。

加州纳帕山谷Harlan Estate配熏煨肉/Smoked Pork
先用秋油、酒将肉煨好,带汁上不屑,略熏之,不可太久,使干湿参半,香嫩异常。吴小谷广文家制之精极。
加州膜拜酒哈兰甫一出世便收到了罗伯特帕克的盛赞,旋即登上加州顶级葡萄酒的殿堂。单宁强劲内敛,香气丰富而又极富层次感,雄浑但不乏优雅。试试袁枚记载的熏煨肉,哈兰的果香与肉味糅合在一起,而橡木桶陈酿带来的香草气息,则是对烟熏味的回应。菜和酒相互搭配,宛若一体,就是完美的婚姻。

加州纳帕山谷Dominus配蜜火腿/Honey Ham
取好火腿,连皮切大方块,用蜜酒煨极烂,最佳。但火腿好丑、高低,判若天渊。虽出金华、兰溪、义乌三处,而有名无实者多。其不佳者,反不如腌肉矣。惟杭州忠清里王三房,四钱一斤者佳 。余在尹文端公苏州公馆吃过一次,其香隔户便至,甘鲜异常。此后不能再遇此尤物矣。
多慕思是新旧世界合作的又一典范,柏翠酒庄的Christian Moueix与Napanook的继承人创造了这个以赤霞珠为主的波尔多混酿风格的葡萄酒。旧世界的传统风格,遇到新世界的风土,造就了这款甜美平衡的多慕思。可以试一试这道蜜火腿,选取上好的火腿,连皮切块后拥蜜酒煨烂。做好后香气浓郁,异常鲜美,与果香同样浓郁丰富的多慕思相互辉映,让人欲罢不能。

澳大利亚Penfolds Grange配红煨肉/Stewed Pork in Brown Sauce
或用甜醬,或用秋油,或竟不用秋油、甜醬。每肉一斤,用鹽三錢,純酒煨之;亦有用水者,但須熬幹水氣。三種治法皆紅如琥珀,不可加糖炒色。早起鍋則黃,當可則紅,過遲則紅色變紫,而精肉轉硬。常起鍋蓋,則油走而味都在油中矣。大抵割肉雖方,以爛到不見鋒棱,上口而精肉俱化為妙。全以火候為主。諺雲:“緊火粥,慢火肉。”至哉言乎!
葛兰许是奔富酒庄的旗帜,这款新世界的膜拜酒之王,没有使用单一葡萄园的收成,而是根据年份不同选择不同地区的果实,依靠酿酒师保持稳定的风格。作为以希拉葡萄为主的混酿葡萄酒,果香浓郁,而橡木的味道更富层次感。口感醇厚,适合搭配同样肥美的红煨肉。用甜酱或者酱油腌制后,加盐用中国白酒慢火炖至琥珀色。如同欣赏葛兰许需要等待陈年,这道红煨肉也需要精确的控制火候,以烂到不见峰棱,入口即化为最妙。搭配上果香丰沛的葛兰许,让人不由拍案叫绝。

原载:佳士得Christie’s香港2013年8月名酒拍卖图录

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