粉蒸排骨配Ponsot Clos de La Roche
粉蒸排骨是川菜，排骨腌入味后裹上米粉，铺于番薯块上放入蒸笼，蒸熟即成。排骨自是要选取最鲜嫩的小肋排，番薯的作用则是为了隔水，确保肉质鲜嫩可口，但整道菜最关键的其实是裹排骨的米粉。米粉以大米为原料，质地柔韧而富有弹性，水煮不糊汤，干炒不易断，作为裹排骨的配料，不但可以吸去多余油份，更可以为排骨增添额外的质感。Ponsot出产的夜丘的特级田Clos de La Roche，完全采用老滕酿造，不苛求生物动力、有机栽培等理念，使用一切手段和方法，尽最大的可能酿造反映风土的佳酿。怡人的酸度恰好解掉粉蒸肉的腻感，而黑比诺柔顺的单宁不管与排骨还是米粉搭配都非常和谐。乙未秋日，张翛翰。

Steamed Spare Ribs with Rice Flour and Ponsot Clos de La Roche
Steamed ribs with rice flour is a Sichuan dish. Marinated spare ribs are coated with flavoured rice flour and then steamed on a bed of sweet potatoes. The ribs must be sourced from tender baby back ribs. The sweet potatoes act as a moisture barrier to ensure that the meat is juicy and hearty. The soul of the dish is, nevertheless, the rice flour. Fried, seasoned and made from scratch white rice, the grainy ‘flour’ has a particular consistency in remaining soft and firm. It does not get starchy when cooked in water nor break down when fried. Providing a coat to the ribs, the rice flour absorbs excessive grease and adds texture to the meat. Ponsot’s Clos de La Roche Grand Cru from Côte de Nuits is made purely with old vines. Without venturing any new concepts like biodynamic and organic farming, Ponsot creates exceptional wine using all possible means to honour and reflect the character of the terroir. The subtle acidity helps diluting the greasiness of the meat, and the suave tannins of pinot noir strike a perfect harmony with both the meat and the rice flour. Autumn 2015. Austin Zhang