清蒸东星斑

清蒸东星斑配Ramonet Montrachet
东星斑色彩鲜艳,身上布满白色的花斑,形似繁星满天,故而称“星斑”。“东”字则来源于其产地,东沙群岛。东星斑的外皮光滑且肉色雪白,多用来清蒸。红皮白肉对比之下,卖相极佳。东星斑生性凶猛,会吃掉任何能吃掉的鱼、虾等物,因此生猛好动,故而肉质细嫩。东星斑美味且价格不菲,是宴会必备的经典菜式之一。
东星斑烹饪方法有若干种,但当属清蒸能最大程度保留其原汁原昧,使人充分享受其鲜嫩口感。清蒸做法相当简单,但非久经考验的大厨不能为之。因为清蒸要求厨师对火候的掌握能力极高,烹饪时间略短则肉夹生,略长则肉已过老,丧失其鲜嫩口感。
做好的清蒸东星斑,肉质鲜嫩,汤汁风味十足,入口极富层次感。勃艮第金丘地区出产的霞多丽,香气复杂,是搭配东星斑非常不错的选择。也可以选配同样由霞多丽酿造的白中白香槟,怡人的酸度和丰盈的气泡,与东星斑的肉质和汤汁均能很好的融合在一起。张翛翰,丙申年初。

Steamed Leopard Coral Trout and Ramonet Montrachet
Leopard coral trout, known as “Star Grouper of the East” in Chinese, is a beautiful fish. Its coral-coloured body is scattered with white dots, like a starry sky, thus is also known as the “Star Grouper.” The “east” in its name refers to the Pratas Islands, one of the key native habitats of this colourful fish. Leopard coral trout has smooth skin and white flesh, and is often cooked by steaming. The red skin juxtaposed to snowy white flesh makes the dish visually stunning. Leopard coral trout is piscivorous and devours smaller fish and crustaceans, this active lifestyle gives rise to its delicate flesh. A true delicacy, coral trout is highly priced and often featured on banquet menu.
There are various ways to cook leopard coral trout, but steaming captures its natural flavours and delicate texture best. Steaming is a simple cooking method but requires the minutest care of the chef. Insufficient steaming time will result in undercooked flesh, while the contrary leads to hardened texture of the meat.
A well-cooked leopard coral trout is extremely succulent and the stock is flavoursome, with layered, subtle savours. The complex aromas of a Chardonnay from the Burgundy Côte d’Or make it excellent paired with this noble fish. One can also accompany it with a Blanc de Blanc Champagne made from Chardonnay. The refreshing acidity and the tantalising bubbles will nicely set off the delicate texture and juiciness of the fish. Early 2016. Austin Zhang.