锅包肉

锅包肉配Louis Jadot Clos de Vougeot
锅包肉是东北名菜,但一切妄图统一大东北土地上锅包肉做法的努力,都是徒劳的。即使是以东北人火爆的性格,对锅包肉做法进行争论也是难以达成一致的。说起来,锅包肉无非就是猪里脊肉片裹上面糊炸成金黄,再次入锅翻炒均匀挂上芡汁即可。辽宁地区多用番茄酱,吉林和黑龙江则是糖、醋和淀粉勾成的芡汁,从番茄酱作为舶来品这一角度,糖醋芡汁应该是为正宗,但是这说法很难让番茄酱教派的信众折服。无论如何,制作精良的锅包肉一定酸甜可口,外皮娇酥,内里柔嫩,搭配勃艮第最有历史感的伏旧园最为相宜,其中酒商路易雅都的出品为其中的佼佼者。百花园的香气,柔顺的酸度与可口的单宁,与不管哪种锅包肉搭配在一起都相当不错。乙未秋日,张翛翰。

Deep-Fried Pork with Sweet and Sour Sauce and Louis Jadot Clos de Vougeot
Deep-fried pork with sweet and sour sauce is the magnum opus of north-eastern Chinese cuisine, but it is a lost cause to attempt to find a canonical recipe of the dish. As the north-easterners are known for their fiery personalities, it is impossible for any dongbei discussions to yield the consensus of a proper method in making the dish. The key elements of this dish are simple, just the slices of pork tenderloin and the sauce. The pork slices are fried in batter, and then returned to the wok to mix with the sweet and sour sauce. The sauce is made with tomato ketchup in the Liaoning region, whereas in Jilin and Heilongjiang, they tend to use a mixture of sugar, vinegar and starch, which is most likely the closest version to the original one, might be hard to convince the supporters for ketchup. In any case, a great deep-fried sweet and sour pork dish is tangy and tantalizing. With its crunchy surface and succulent interior, the pork is excellent with fine Burgundy wines from the historical Clos de Vougeot, in particular, those created by winemaker, Louis Jadot. The floral taste, the delicate and fresh acidity and the ripe tannins make it the best wine to drink with any variations of the sweet and sour pork dish. Autumn 2015. Austin Zhang