葱烧海参配Groffier Bonnes Mares
海参自古被列为海味珍品，而葱烧海参则是鲁菜宴席中必不可少的压轴名菜。
烹调海参需要相当高超的技巧和丰富的经验，否则一着不慎满盘皆输。最关键的是涨发和入味两点。海参的涨发，就是要干缩的海参充分吸收水分，最大程度的恢复原状。由于干海参吸水性极差，因此这一过程极难控制。又加上不同海参个头、软硬程度的差异，经验丰富的大厨才能判断涨发的程度，最大限度还原其美味。海参本无味，需要使用一定的烹饪方法才能将其入味。按照传统鲁菜烹制海参的技法，先以清汤汆煮提鲜，而后以鲁菜中经典的烧制之法使海参完美入味：将猪油与白糖炒成鸡血红色后，下葱姜末入海参煸炒，随后下清汤佐料，烧开后小火收焅，大火颠炒。
善用葱是鲁菜的另一特点。章丘产大葱可达一米五长，口味清甜，脆嫩可口。葱烧海参里，葱段要先炸成金黄色，再加清汤、料酒等入蒸笼，滗去汤汁，仅留葱段。然后大火加葱油略煸，即可搭配烧制好的海参。鲁菜的烧海参味道十足，海参粘弹而有嚼劲。虽是海味，但由于其葱烧的烹饪方法，既可以搭配口感丰腴的葡萄酒如勃艮第顶级的黑比诺，也可以用充满矿物质和果香，口感同样丰腴的勃艮第霞多丽搭配。张翛翰，丙申年初。

Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallions and Groffier Bonnes Mares
Sea Cucumbers have long been considered an exceptional seafood delicacy, and Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallions is a must-have dish in any Shandong cuisine banquet.
Cooking sea cucumber is a delicate affair requiring a lot of experience and mastery of the ingredient, or else the whole dish can easily be ruined beyond repair. The two key steps are the rehydration of the sea cucumbers and infusing them with flavours. Soaking dried sea cucumbers allows them to retrieve their original size and volume. As dried sea cucumbers absorb water poorly, this step is extremely time-consuming and challenging. The rehydration process is further complicated by the various sizes and degree of hardness of the sea cucumbers, meaning only highly experienced chefs manage to rehydrate these sea animals to the optimal state. Sea cucumbers on their own are quite bland in taste, and need to be infused with seasoning to enhance flavours. In traditional Shandong cooking, the sea cucumbers are first blanched in stock, and then, like a lot of other classic Shandong dishes, braised until they are completely imbued with the savours. The braising process is meticulous. First, in a wok over high heat, fry lard and sugar into caramel, then add scallions, ginger slices and the sea cucumber for stir-frying. A clear stock and seasoning is then introduced and brought to a boil. Immediately afterwards, the wok is moved over low heat to greatly reduce the sauce, before the whole dish is fried again on high heat to lock in all flavours.
The adept use of scallions is also characteristic of Shandong cuisine. Scallions produced from Zhangqiu can reach 1.5 metres long and has a mild and pleasant flavour. In the Braised Sea Cucumber dish, the scallions are first deep-fried till golden and then steamed in a bath of stock and cooking wine. The juice is then discarded, only the scallions are kept, returned to the wok and seared to serve with the sea cucumbers. The soft and al dente texture of the sea cucumbers and the lush sauce make the dish a true feast for the palate. Despite sea cucumbers’ being seafood, the scallion-braised cooking method makes the dish perfectly suited to be enjoyed with a richly bodied Burgundy Pinot Noir Grand Cru, or alongside the mineral and fruity aromas of an expressive Burgundy Chardonnay. Early 2016. Austin Zhang.